Installing LED lighting is less complicated than it looks for most people. Replacing a lamp takes a minute, hanging a light fixture is an afternoon job. There is electricity involved, though, and you don't joke around with that. In this guide I walk you through everything: from replacing a lamp and choosing the right socket to hanging and connecting a wall light, what you can do yourself and when you're better off calling an electrician.
In short
- Replacing a lamp: circuit off, old lamp out, same socket type back in, on. Check the socket type, lumens and light colour.
- Hanging a light fixture: circuit off, check for voltage, fix it in place and connect it. In the Netherlands brown or black is live, blue is neutral and green-yellow is earth.
- Safety: always switch off the circuit at the fuse box and check with a voltage tester. The wall switch alone is not enough.
- Have it done: new circuits, work in the fuse box, wet rooms and anything you are unsure about, by a certified electrician.
- LED saves a lot: an 8W lamp instead of 60W saves about 23 euros a year at 4 hours a day.
Already know what you're looking for? Jump straight to:
What can you do yourself, and what should you have done?
✅ You can do this yourself
Replace a lamp, connect a light fixture or wall light to an existing light point, fit a plug-in dimmer, connect an LED strip with a power supply in a dry room.
📞 You have this done
Installing new circuits or light points, work in the fuse box, installations in the bathroom or outdoors, and anything you're not sure how it works.
A good rule of thumb: if you are touching something behind the existing light point or in the fuse box, have a certified electrician do it. The benefit isn't only safety: it also gives you certainty that everything was done according to the rules.
What do you need?
🧰 For most jobs
Screwdrivers, pliers, a wire stripper, a tape measure and safety glasses.
⚡ For electrics
A voltage tester (preferably two-pole), wire connectors or terminal blocks and insulating tape. That way you can be sure the power is really off.
🔩 For hanging
A drill, the right drill bit and wall plugs, a spirit level and a pencil. For outdoors, use stainless steel screws.
🪜 For height
A sturdy stepladder or ladder. Put it on a level surface and make sure someone is holding it or you have a second pair of hands.
Part 1: replacing an LED lamp in 5 steps
- Choose the right lamp. Look at the socket type (such as E27, GU10 or G9), the light output in lumens and the colour temperature in Kelvin. Those three decide whether the lamp fits and how the room feels. See the tables below.
- Switch off the power. Turn off the wall switch and preferably also the circuit in the fuse box. That is safer than the switch alone.
- Remove the old lamp. Turn it anticlockwise out of the socket. A lamp that has just been on can still be hot, wait a moment or use a cloth.
- Fit the new lamp. Screw it in firmly, but not too tight. LED lamps are ready to use straight away, there is no warm-up time.
- Switch the power back on and test. Doesn't it light up? Check that the lamp is seated properly and that the circuit is really back on.
Which socket do I need?
Look at your old lamp or inside the socket. A common mistake is a lamp that just doesn't fit. The table below will help you on your way.
| Socket | How to recognise it | Mostly used for | Voltage |
|---|---|---|---|
| E27 | Large screw base | Standard lamp, ceiling and pendant lights | 230V |
| E14 | Small screw base | Candle lamps, chandeliers, extractor hoods | 230V |
| GU10 | Two pins, quarter turn | Recessed spots and track lighting | 230V |
| G9 | Two pins, push-in | Small light fixtures and wall lights | 230V |
| G4 | Two small pins, push-in | Kitchen, cabinet lighting, small lamps | 12V |
| GU5.3 (MR16) | Two pins, round spotlight | Older recessed spots and track lighting | 12V |
Doesn't the socket fit the lamp you want? A socket adapter often solves that. That way you can put an E14 lamp in an E27 socket or the other way round, or fit a GU10 spot in an E27 socket.
E27 to E14 socket adapter, 2 piecesWhite, 230V ACView ›
GU10 to E27 socket adapter, 2 piecesWhite, 230V ACView ›
From watts to lumens: how to choose the right light
On old lamps you only saw the wattage. With LED you look at lumens: that tells you how much light you get. The table below gives a rough comparison with an incandescent lamp.
| Incandescent lamp | Light output | LED (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| 25W | approx. 250 lumens | 2 to 3 W |
| 40W | approx. 450 lumens | 4 to 5 W |
| 60W | approx. 800 lumens | 8 to 9 W |
| 75W | approx. 1,050 lumens | 10 to 11 W |
| 100W | approx. 1,500 lumens | 13 to 15 W |
Worked example: a 60W incandescent lamp that is on for 4 hours a day uses 60 × 4 × 365 = 87.6 kWh a year. At 0.30 euros per kWh that is about 26 euros. An 8W LED lamp with the same light output uses 11.7 kWh and costs about 3.50 euros. So you save roughly 23 euros per lamp per year. An LED lamp of 12.95 euros pays for itself in about 7 months. The example assumes an electricity price of 0.30 euros per kWh. You can read more about the savings in LED vs incandescent, halogen and CFL.
For light colour: warm white (2700 to 3000K) for living room and bedroom, cool white (4000K) for kitchen, workspace and garage. You can read everything about colours in LED colour temperature: 2700K, 3000K, 4000K or 6500K?.
LED lamp E27 dimmable, 8WReplaces 80W, 800 lumens, warm white 2700KView ›
LED lamp E27, 9WReplaces 75W, cool white 4000KView ›
GU10 LED lamp dimmable, 5WReplaces 50W, warm white 3000KView ›
G9 capsule lamp, set of 2LED 2W, warm white 3000K, 230VView ›
All LED lamps › · All LED spots ›
Replacing 12V halogen: watch the transformer
If you have 12V halogen spots, there is a transformer between the wall socket and the lamp. Many old transformers supply 12V alternating current and have a minimum load. An LED lamp uses far less power and can therefore flicker or not light up. In that case, replace the transformer with an LED power supply or choose an LED lamp that is explicitly suitable for 12V AC. Why that is and what the difference between AC and DC means, you can read in The difference between AC and DC.
G4 capsule lamp 12V DCLED 1.3W, warm white 3000KView ›
GY6.35 capsule lamp 12V dimmableLED 3.5W, replaces 35W, 300 lumensView ›
Dimmable lamps and dimmers
Not every LED lamp is dimmable and not every dimmer works with every lamp. Choose a lamp that is dimmable and a dimmer that is suitable for LED, preferably with a minimum and maximum power that matches your lamps. You can read more about trailing edge, minimum power and flickering in Dimmable LED lighting: everything about dimmers and compatibility.
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Part 2: hanging and connecting a light fixture or wall light
Are you hanging a new wall light, ceiling light or other light fixture on an existing light point? Then work through these steps. Example: an outdoor wall light.
1. Choose the spot
Think about where the light is needed most. Choose a spot that is easy to reach from the existing connection and where the lamp doesn't fall in the shadow of something else. Outdoors, the lamp must be waterproof and suitable for wind and weather. You can read about height and IP code in Installing outdoor lighting: wall light, floodlight, garden and carport.
2. Switch off the power and check
Switch off the circuit in the fuse box. Then check the wires with a voltage tester to make sure there is really no voltage left. This is a crucial step: switching off only the wall switch is not enough, because the live wire can still be connected to the lamp.
3. Mark and drill
Hold the light fixture against the wall, decide on the ideal height and mark the holes with a pencil. Use the right drill bit for your wall and the supplied wall plugs. Use a spirit level so the lamp hangs straight.
4. Fix the light fixture in place
Screw the mounting plate or the light fixture in place and check that it is firm and doesn't wobble. That prevents problems later and gives you a stable mounting.
5. Connect the wires
In the Netherlands the following applies to a standard installation: brown or black is live, blue is neutral and green-yellow is earth. Connect brown to brown, blue to blue and green-yellow to green-yellow. If your lamp has no earth (class II), that wire stays unused and you insulate it. Use wire connectors or terminal blocks, pull on each wire to test that it is secure and make sure no bare copper sticks out. In older installations the colours may differ. Not sure? Then stop and have an electrician do it.
Wire connector set of 5, 2-in-6-outConnecting terminal 0.08 to 4 mm², reusableView ›
PCT wire connector set of 5, 2-wayConnecting terminal 0.08 to 4 mm², IP20View ›
6. Switch the power on and test
Switch the circuit back on and test the lamp. Does it work? Then you are done. Doesn't it work? Switch the circuit off again first before you check the wires once more.
Installing outdoors: extra points to watch
- Use waterproof connections. An ordinary wire connector is not suitable for outdoors. Choose IP68 connectors or a waterproof junction box.
- Choose the right IP code. Under a canopy IP44 is the minimum, in the rain IP65. See IP rating explained: IP20, IP44, IP65 and IK08.
- Make sure there is an RCD. Connect all 230V outdoor lighting via a residual current device (RCD).
- Use outdoor cable. An ordinary flex cable cannot withstand moisture and UV radiation.
Connecting LED strips and power supplies
An LED strip runs on 12V or 24V direct current and therefore needs a power supply. Choose a power supply with the same voltage as your strip, add up the power of the strip and allow a 20% margin. The full explanation with a worked example is in The difference between AC and DC. Connect the power supply to 230V following the same rules as above and keep the strip on the 12V or 24V side separate from the mains.
Avoiding common mistakes
Flickering, afterglow, humming or a lamp that fails quickly: it is almost always the same causes, such as the wrong dimmer, a poor transformer or a lamp that doesn't match the socket. For a quick diagnosis, read Troubleshooting LED lighting: flickering, afterglow, humming and 10 installation mistakes.
Maintaining LED lighting
- Clean lamps and light fixtures. Dust reduces light output. Use a dry or slightly damp cloth with the power off.
- Check the wiring. Look once a year for wear, loose connections or discoloured spots.
- Replace faulty lamps. First check that the connections are secure before you throw the lamp away.
What to look for when buying
💡 Light output
Look at lumens. More lumens means more light. Choose enough lumens per room, see What is a lumen?.
🎨 Colour temperature
Warm for cosy, cool for working. Keep it the same within one room.
⚡ Energy consumption
Choose a low wattage for the same lumens. That makes a difference on your energy bill.
🏷️ Quality
Look for quality marks (such as CE), warranty and dimmability. A good lamp lasts many years.
When do you call an electrician?
Doesn't it feel right, or does something come up that you don't know? Then call a certified electrician. He works faster, knows the rules and guarantees that it is done safely and correctly. That certainly applies to new circuits, work in the fuse box, wet rooms and anything permanently installed outdoors.
Goes with this article
LED lamp E27 dimmable, 8W800 lumens, warm white 2700KView ›
GU10 LED lamp dimmable, 5WReplaces 50W, warm white 3000KView ›
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Frequently asked questions
Can I replace a lamp or light fixture myself?
Do I need to switch off the circuit or is the switch enough?
Can I screw an LED lamp into an old socket?
Why doesn't my new LED lamp work?
Which wire colour goes where?
How long does an LED lamp last?
Kind regards,
Bas / LEDPLANET.NL
Further reading
- Troubleshooting LED lighting: flickering, afterglow, humming and 10 installation mistakes
- The difference between AC and DC
- Dimmable LED lighting: everything about dimmers and compatibility
- Installing outdoor lighting: wall light, floodlight, garden and carport
- Replacing fluorescent tubes with LED: step-by-step guide for every fitting
- What is a lumen? Lumens, watts and lux explained











